From the Table: New York
Some old favorites, some new, and a pass.
I was recently in NYC for a quick trip—one of those whirlwind visits where you barely unpack but somehow still squeeze in eight meals. I avoided the street carts and the latest gimmicky food trends and stuck to what I care about most: restaurants and wine bars. Some old favorites, some new discoveries, and at least one place I won’t return to. Here’s the recap.
Aldo Sohm Wine Bar
First time here. Aldo Sohm is well known in the sommelier community and works closely with Eric Ripert of Le Bernardin, one of the world’s top restaurants. This wine bar, just around the corner, is cozy and elegant without being pretentious. They offer about 40 wines by the glass, and I was intrigued by their open storage system—custom countertop coolers keeping each wine at its ideal serving temperature.
I had a Crémant d’Alsace and a duck confit salad that was beautifully composed and flavorful. Service was excellent, and I ended up chatting with one of the sommeliers about their program. I’ll definitely be back.
Benoit
I haven’t been to many of Alain Ducasse’s restaurants, but Benoit had been on my list for a while—casual Provençal fare, French charm, and a solid wine list. I went with a Pinot Blanc from Alsace to start. The bread and butter arrived, but the butter was so cold it was basically a block of ice.
I ordered the pâté en croûte—a go-to move for me in France. It looked beautiful, plated with care and accompanied by delicate pickles. But the flavor? Lacking. A little too cold, and missing that livery depth I love in the French versions. Felt like it was dialed back for American palates.
Then came the bartender struggling to pour beer. Foam everywhere. He admitted the system was off, and I offered to fix the flow rate. He declined, though I think he was tempted.
For my main course, I ordered the beef tartare and a side of pommes frites. I selected a Saumur Champigny, but the bartender suggested I try the featured Côte-Rôtie instead. That turned out to be a great call—classic Syrah notes of olive, herbs, and smoky bacon fat. The fries were excellent. The tartare, however, was just okay. Too pale—white streaks from mayo or crème fraîche dulled the flavor. I prefer a bolder, beefier version.
Finished with a delicious apricot liqueur, but overall, Benoit didn’t make the cut for a return visit.
Chalong
Located in Hell’s Kitchen, Chalong is a Southern Thai spot recently awarded a Bib Gourmand by Michelin. I’ve been diving into Thai cooking lately, so I couldn’t wait to check it out. The interior had an upscale Thai vibe—warm textures, natural materials.
I started with the Baerng Golae: a crisp coconut shell formed like a mini taco, filled with grilled shrimp and curry paste. I could’ve eaten ten. For the main, I had their goat curry, which the bartenders claimed as their signature dish—braised for six hours and served with grilled roti. Incredible. Rich, spicy, and satisfying. The Singha lager was a welcome palate cleanser.
This spot is absolutely a must-return.
Briciola Wine Bar
I stumbled upon this place walking to Chalong and made a mental note to come back. Tiny and cramped in the best way—reminded me of a little wine bar I once visited in Rome. Bottles stacked everywhere, handwritten board for a wine list (no producers listed, naturally). I didn’t have a reservation, but I told the woman running the show (likely the owner) I wouldn’t stay long. She let me squeeze in for a glass and a small plate.
I was melting from the heat, so I went for a Verdicchio, and she insisted I try the watermelon feta salad. That combo cooled me down quickly!
The place had no real private space—she was barking orders to the kitchen and staff right in the open, which just added to that Italian charm. People kept showing up and getting turned away. I felt lucky to be there and totally at home. If I lived nearby, I’d be a regular.
La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels
I first visited La Compagnie back in March 2020. It’s a wine bar with Parisian roots that landed in SoHo with the goal of serving serious wines in a fun, low-pressure environment. The team behind it includes members of Experimental Group, known for creating stylish, hospitality-forward spots across Europe and the U.S. The vibe is cozy and contemporary—think dim lighting, a long bar, plush seating, and a well-curated wine list full of small producers and surprises.
This visit, the service was even better than I remembered. I chatted with the bartender about whether their pet-nats are f’ed up or not—he assured me his weren’t. He was right. I had a California Chenin Blanc orange pet-nat that was refreshing, bright, and balanced. It hit the spot and felt like the kind of wine I could loose track of time while drinking more than one glass.
Lilia
An old favorite in Brooklyn. I last went in November 2022 and had one of my best meals of the year. It’s still tough to get a reservation—they release tables just a few weeks out, so you have to be ready to pounce.
This time, I started with cucumbers with Calabrian chili, coriander, fennel seed, and sheep’s milk cheese. For the aperitivo, a Select spritz, complete with a green olive—on-brand just like I've enjoyed in Venice.
Next came grilled prawns followed by spaghetti with pine nuts, lemon, and Parm, and then fettuccine with lamb sausage, tomato passato, lemon, and pecorino.
Dessert was their house-made soft serve topped with olive oil, honey, and fennel pollen, and a rich chocolate torta with espresso zabaglione. I asked for a non-mainstream amaro, and the bartender poured me an arugula amaro from Ischia—new to me and incredible. I’m now on a mission to find a bottle.
Lilia was just as packed and polished as last time. Still worth the effort.
Stay tuned—my next newsletter drops at the beginning of the month.